Ryrie's – Train beers, pt. 1
Two bars, eight casks and dozens of whiskies – you'll be lucky to make your train on time.
This is the first of two posts on pubs by the train stations. This week, we’re at Haymarket. Next week: Waverley.
In 1842, a few decades after James Watt invented his steam engine, the Edinburgh and Glasgow train line was completed. Its terminus was just behind the Haymarket Weigh House, a conveniently-located pub whose owners must have thanked their lucky stars for all the new trade they surely gained. The establishment would soon change its name to the Railway Inn. In 1862, Mr Alexander Ryrie – a local lad – took over the tavern.
As well as changing its name a few times, the building has been extensively remodelled and expanded in the years since then. Nowadays, an Edwardian style has been restored by the pub’s current owners. Most impressively, light streams through stained-glass windows which advertise brandies, cordials, spirits and wines – as well as McEwan’s 70/-. Despite the wood-panelled walls, carved gantry, beamed ceilings and parquet floor, the place feels light and airy. It’s a pleasant place to wait for your train, aided by the very useful live departures screen in one corner.
Entering through the corner door, you are confronted with a long bar with eight hand-pulled casks. The beer is of good quality, if a little on the pricey side (I suppose you’re paying for the convenience of being right next to the station). If you prefer a dram, an expansive whisky list, spanning four pages of the menu, gives plenty of options.
Upstairs, the vibe changes. It’s a cocktail bar, all mood lighting and teal seating. There’s a large collection of gins to choose from as well as a small plates menu. Like all of DM Stewart’s pubs (they also own The Cumberland Bar, The Abbotsford and The Guildford Arms), it’s decked out very well – though I wouldn’t fancy dashing for a train after a martini or three.
The immediate area around it is not blessed with an abundance of good pubs, making this stand out even further. Which means that even if you’re not going to the station, Ryrie’s is still worth a visit.
Where is it?
Where next?
If you’re not getting on a train, then allow me to suggest one of my favourite pubs in Edinburgh: The Athletic Arms is 15 minutes’ walk away.
The chaser
First, a quick update to last week’s chaser: Mather’s Bar on Broughton Street now appears to be open again after a collapsed ceiling caused it to shut temporarily.
On the subject of trains, LNER recently brought in a “simplified” (read: “more expensive”) pricing system. If, like me, you’re totally confused by it, take a look at this travel hack from transport guru Simon Calder. Basically, booking tickets from Haymarket rather than Waverley could save you quite a bit of cash.1
Oh, and while we’re talking about transport, it turns out Edinburgh is one of the cheaper airports for pints in the UK. I wrote about the Wetherspoon’s in the airport last month. Though even I, a Spoons apologist, struggled with that one.
I learned about this in The Edinburgh Minute, a very useful daily newsletter. And welcome to my new readers who found me through last week’s Edinburgh Minute.