The Oxford Bar – So basic, so charming
Rebus' favourite haunt is worth a visit.
What is there to say about The Oxford Bar that Ian Rankin hasn’t already written? The pub features as a recurring character in his Inspector Rebus novels – as a place for the cop to relax, take respite or to pick up snippets of local gossip.
The afternoon I visit is relatively quiet, with a couple of old boys sipping hauf ‘n’ haufs in the front room. This area is pretty much standing room only, being tiny and dominated by the bar.
Up a couple of steps is the main pub area: a very basic setup with wooden benches and tables along the walls. The smell of last night’s coal fire still lingers, and I take a seat next to the chimney breast. Bare light bulbs hang from the beamed ceilings and illuminate the various pictures of the bar in bygone times – proving that it has hardly changed in decades. Along the back walls are photos for sale (the bar calls it an “Oxhibition”).
And that’s pretty much it. It’s no frills, but it’s completely charming. I imagine it’s what New Town pubs were like two centuries ago – a place for the community, a social space welcome to anyone who wants a chat, or, like me, a quiet pint and a place to read a few chapters of my book.
However, I was let down by the beer I had. Normally Stewart Brewing is so reliable, even in places which don’t keep their cask ale so well. Unfortunately, the Stewart’s 80/- I had was not up to scratch (and I know how good it can be, given it is effectively the house beer on at The Diggers). I’ll have to sample the whisky selection next time I drop by.
And I will be back. Despite The Oxford Bar’s relatively central location, it feels like it is off the beaten path, unbothered by the world around it. It has already become immortalised in the pages of the Rebus novels. Now let’s hope it survives, unchanged, for the next two centuries.
Where is it?
Where next?
You’re less than 10 minutes’ walk from one of my favourite spots in Edinburgh, Kay’s Bar.
The chaser
Walking by Mather’s Bar on Broughton Street, I noticed this sign: A collapsed ceiling means it has unfortunately had to shut “until further notice”. Get in touch if you have any more information on this.
Oh, and I wanted to update you on last week’s review. After I published it, reader Anne told me more about the history of the pub, as she used to work nearby. You can read the update at the bottom of last week’s post.
