The Athletic Arms – Bury me here
Also known as the Diggers, this pub has so, so much going for it.
What’s it about?
In the shadow of Murrayfield and Tynecastle stadiums lie two graveyards: North Merchiston Cemetery and Dalry Cemetery. I think I’d rather spend eternity in between the two, at The Athletic Arms. Its position means it was a regular haunt for the gravediggers working nearby, giving the pub its second name: The Diggers. Call it whatever you want. It’s a belter of a pub.
The entrance in the angular corner opens to reveal a large wooden bar with enough bottles of whisky to satisfy 20,000 thirsty Hearts fans. In fact, the back wall clearly isn’t large enough to hold the wide selection, but luckily a central island behind the bar stores more bottles. The marble-topped bar hosts some very good-quality cask, with two on hand-pull and four on traditional tall fount.1
There’s one beer this pub is famous for, though. “The pub’s success was founded on the sale of McEwan’s 80/-,” reads a plaque on the wall. Regulars would only have to hold up their fingers as they entered, and “by the time they reached the bar the requested number of pints would be waiting for them.”2
When the Caledonian Brewery down the road stopped producing it on cask in 2006, the pub claimed to sell “one third of all McEwan's 80/- drunk in Edinburgh”. Luckily local brewery Stewart Brewing now produces an 80/- specially for the pub.
However, it is a keg beer I have come here for this time round. I’m ashamed to say that I was ignorant of Irish stout (beyond Guinness) until my first visit to the Diggers last year. I was introduced to the deeper, more flavoursome and far superior Murphy’s – and I am a convert. Anyway, whatever your poison, it’s all very reasonably priced (Murphy’s £4, cask beer £3.80, many whiskies available for around £3).
The combination of early January and no football means there are plenty of seating options on this cold Saturday afternoon. On matchdays, it’s a totally different proposition. Red leather banquettes outline the main room of the pub, while there is a snug in the back which I note can be booked for private occasions. We opt for the other small room in the back, as we wait for the dart board to become available. Hanging on the walls are cartoons and photos of Hearts squads over the ages (did I mention it’s near Tynecastle?), along with mirrored signs advertising old beer brands.
Unfortunately the dart board is being hogged and the large group of students on the table next to us are getting steadily louder and more obnoxious.3 So we move back into the main room and sit in front of the etched windows sporting the McEwan’s and Deuchars logos. It’s filled up nicely in the mean time. We order food – basic pies and toasties, but decent enough and you can’t argue at these prices.
As we make our way out, I notice the giant compass on the floor by the exit. I have no idea if it’s pointing the right way. All I know is that it won’t be long before I’m marching firmly in the direction of the Diggers again.
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The chaser
I mentioned we were angling for a chuck on the board, so I’ll point out another great pub nearby which is good for darts. The staff at The Tynecastle Arms were exemplary and so very friendly. The woman working behind the bar even went into the back room to get the darts mat out for us so we knew how far back to stand. I’ll definitely be back there again.
Meanwhile, the “welcome" at Stratfords Bar just up the road was the total opposite.
Where is it?
Sunday - Thursday 11am-1am; Friday & Saturday 12pm-1am.
Where next?
The aforementioned Tynecastle Arms is a good shout. Or, have a look at the Edinburgh Pub Reviews map for inspiration.
A pub’s not just for Christmas
It’s not too late to visit one of the cosiest pubs in Edinburgh, especially given this weather.
Update 08/02/24: For more on the tall fount/tall font, have a look at Pints of View, Camra Edinburgh’s magazine (PDF, p6).
Update 10/01/24: Thanks to reader Thom who confirmed in the comments that this indeed used to happen when he was drinking here in the 80s.
The reason I first came to Edinburgh was to study, so I have nothing against students. It’s just that I wasn’t that bloody noisy when I was one.
This was my local back in the 1980s, and I can attest that when you went in on a packed Friday night, you'd hold a number of fingers up and that number of pints would be waiting for you on the bar by the time you burrowed your way through. The efficiency of purveying pints was down to the division of labour behind the bar, with one member of staff spotting people coming in and others pouring the pints and (I think) taking your money - one person stood behind the till to cash up and make change. The pints were exemplary, due in part to the amount of beer flowing, meaning it was always fresh, and also to the proximity of the McEwans brewery (now demolished) which was close by up in Fountainbridge - and whose workers were no doubt among the Diggers' post-shift drinkers...
I love the Athletic Arms! I was trying to find a pub that had the Strathisla 13 yr first fill sherry butt. Not only did they have it but they had 3 other Strathislas. Who has 4 Strathislas? Nobody but Athetic arms. And little curry pies.