Leslie’s Bar – Redemption
A tale of two visits to Edinburgh's most beautiful pub.
I’m a few pints into a mini bar crawl in Newington. I’m walking – from the lovely Steel Couslon Southside – to Leslie’s Bar. I’ve never been here before, but I have heard good things. I don’t realise that I am about to walk into one of Edinburgh’s most beautiful pubs.
There are more opulent pubs in the city. But this has so much character. I’ve not seen a pub like this before. It was built in 1896, with the current iteration redesigned in 1902 when the bar was taken over by a Mr John Leslie. The designer was PL Henderson. A prolific architect of breweries, in the late Victorian era Henderson turned his hand to pub interiors, including The Abbotsford, The Central Bar, Deacon Brodies Tavern and The Mitre Bar.
Leslie’s is split straight down the middle by the bar, with two entrances for the public and saloon bars. The bar itself is open on one side and with serving hatches on the other. Presumably this was so that the rich people on the other side didn’t have to fraternise with the riff raff on the opposite end.
Tables are dotted along snugs down one wall, creating a cosy and conspiratorial atmosphere; perfect for a cold Saturday night. It’s all wooden panels and stained glass, with an intricate ceiling and velvet banquets. It is completely beautiful. I love it more than I can put into words. Though it’s surprisingly quiet for a weekend, I think to myself that I may never leave this place.
I’m in love before I’ve taken my coat off. I’m eager to get to the beer. I go for something I don’t see often – an Old Golden Hen. The staff take their time to pour it. I’m excited just listening to it come out of the tap.
We get back to our table and I bring the glass to my lips – waiting for that first sip to take me to another level and instantly cement this as the best pub in Edinburgh, and… it just doesn’t do it. It’s a little flat, with a musty aftertaste. It’s’ possibly a little on the turn. For the sake of transparency, I should note that my pub crawl companion Dan says I’m being harsh when I give it a five out of ten. But we’ve been disagreeing on the beers all afternoon, and anyway this is my review not his.
It’s crushing. I’m devastated that a pub with so much to give to the eyes can’t do the same to the tongue.
I go back in for another pint. I will it to be better. I go for a safe option – the house ale. Surely this is going to be reliable? The one with the most turnover and therefore more likely to be fresh? But Dan and I look at each other and agree it’s a six out of ten.
A pub which radiates this much beauty should serve stellar cask ale. But, it pains me to say, it just doesn’t. At least on this occasion.
The chaser – A return
I couldn’t leave it there.
Upon leaving John Leslie’s that evening, I said to myself that I’d be willing to go back just to experience that elegant interior. I’d stick to something simpler; an industrially-produced lager, or something of the extensive whisky list. Hell, I’d go back for a tap water if it meant I could sit in there again.
So a few weeks later, while I’m in the area, I return alone. During the day, light pours through the stained glass details near the front windows. It’s even emptier than last time, though that’s to be expected on a Thursday mid-afternoon.
I gravitate back to the real ales. Maybe it will be third time lucky? There’s a Bitter & Twisted on, from Harviestoun. It’s one of those ales which can be relied upon in any venue, even the ones which are a little less trustworthy when it comes to the cask stuff.1
The relief I feel after that first sip is unparalleled. It’s good. As the name suggests, the bitterness of the hops sit prominently on top of the delicate sweetness of the malts. And £4.60 a pint is pretty reasonable these days. Thank you, Harviestoun, for never letting me down. And thank you, John Leslie. You’re worth coming back to, again and again.
Where is it?
Where next?
If you’re coming down from the centre of town, be sure to stop at The Royal Dick at Sumerhall.
Thank you to readers Georgie and Tom for suggesting Leslie’s Bar for Edinburgh Pub Reviews - you can always add your own suggestions by replying directly to this email, or hitting the comment button below.
I would also heartily recommend Harviestoun’s Schiehallion lager, especially if you can find it on cask.