Lioness of Leith – The right side of quirky
Friendly staff and fantastic burgers make this pub worth a visit.
The Lioness of Leith does a great burger and some good cheap house lager from Bellfield Brewery. There’s an impressive cocktail selection. The staff are very friendly. I start with all this because what I’m about to describe may be very off-putting for some readers.
To describe the Lioness of Leith as “quirky” would be underselling it. This is a place dripping in decorative irony, from the multicoloured lightbulbs arranged to spell out the word “bar”, to the arcade game, pinball machine, disco ball and the chandelier above the bar.
Neon signs say things like “don’t be a dick” and “cocktails”. Fake animal heads – a rhino, leopard, antelope and lioness of course – peer down from the walls. A forest of house plants grow out of beer kegs and hang over the tables.
In case you had forgotten (perhaps you’d been distracted by the giant print of a three-eyed, two-nosed Alan Ginsberg), a road sign reminds you that you are in Leith. I’m grateful for the prompt – I’d momentarily thought I’d stepped into the mood board of a wannabe Williamsburg artist from 2008.
The Lioness of Leith, it turns out, was conceived in 2014. A Scotsman review from the time places it among the “unmistakable signs of the gentrification” happening around the area. “There’s a slew of bars – as opposed to old boys’ boozers – popping up all over the place,” they wrote. The Lioness replaced the old Mintos Bar, which seemed quite the rough house and had been closed for some time.
Ten years on, and the jumble sale look which may still have felt fresh in the early 2010s now appears a little tired. A hipster aesthetic is also not backed up by much in the way of interesting craft beer either. That feels a shame because the explosion of small breweries a decade ago was one of the exciting legacies of that era. British beer – including real ale – has greatly benefitted from the rise in variety and quality that came from the craft movement.
Having said all this, though, I’ve been to The Lioness of Leith a handful of times and always enjoyed it. The line between quirk and irk is a fine one, and this establishment stays just on the right side. Perhaps it’s the fact that it’s always been the third or fourth pub on a crawl, or I’ve been with good mates at the time, or just the fact that it has a great atmosphere. It’s pretty loud, got a good buzz and, crucially doesn’t feel exclusive. The last time I went in, the crowd was fairly diverse: Couples of all ages, groups of mates catching up, a table of middle-aged women who appear to be colleagues sharing a well-earned pint at the end of the week – the place is inviting enough for them all. Which, despite being the most important aspect of a pub, is one which many fail to achieve.
And then there’s the burgers, which are exceptional. Sensibly, the menu is kept simple. My hamburger came with cheese, a touch of jalapeño and one onion ring, allowing the patty – with meat sourced from Findlay’s butcher in Portobello – to shine through. The hand-cut chips did the job, though the skinny fries were even better.
It’s no mean feat to be going for ten years and the pub has earned its longevity through great food. However, while the house lager is a good deal, the beer selection could be better overall. There’s no cask, and the stuff on keg is on the pricier side. The drinks menu is saved by a good cocktail list. It might not be for everyone, but The Lioness of Leith works. I’ll be back before long for another burger.
Where is it?
Where next?
You’ve got two stellar options within five minutes of stepping out of The Lioness of Leith.
Turn left then head up Easter Road for more food at The Percy.
Or, turn right then follow the tram up Leith Walk to Newbarns Brewery and Taproom.
The chaser
It emerged last week that The Foot of the Walk – the Wetherspoon’s pub a block away from the Lioness of Leith – has been put up for sale. Everyone has their own opinion of Spoons. Here’s mine: Last Friday, I was at The Foot of the Walk. I had three pints of Jaipur, served perfectly, in better condition than many other pubs would bother keeping it in. And I had change from a tenner. I’ll miss it when it’s gone.
When you're in Leith you should check out Lost in Leith - I feel like a lot of people haven't been because it's location is off the Walk, but it's only a couple minutes from The Shore. Also if you've never had the mac & cheese nachos at Teuchters Landing you're missing out!