The five cosiest Edinburgh pubs this Christmas
Pop in for a pint this festive season.
I can never decide which is better: A beautiful summer’s day where you get to sit outside long into the evening enjoying a couple of pints with friends? Or a chilly winter’s day where you come in out of the cold and warm up in your favourite pub?
Luckily, we can do both. This time of year, it’s cozy Christmas pub season. So whether it’s finding a quick place to stop during your Christmas shopping, or somewhere to meet a mate over the festive period, it’s important to have a list of go-to places.
I’ll be honest, I haven’t nailed down my criteria for what counts as a cozy pub. I will say that most of these suggestions are pretty small, so probably not great for an impromptu visit with big group of friends or family. But apart from that, I’m not sure what they all have in common – apart from great beer, of course. And just a general festive ambience. Obviously, don’t just visit them in winter – they’re just as good in any season. But, well, I’ve decided to designate them Christmassy places. So here’s my entirely vibes-based list of the five (well, six actually) cosiest pubs for this season. Tell me what I’ve missed in the comments below, or email edinburghpubreviews@substack.com.
1. Kay’s Bar, New Town
I reviewed this pub – one of my favourites in Edinburgh – in November. When I last visited, it was a crisp Sunday afternoon, and the combination of a snug room and open fire was most welcome. The small space can fill up very fast, but it’s worth visiting even if you have to stand. Great beer and a wide spirit selection, with a whisky and gin always on offer. What more do you need?
2. St Bernard’s Bar, Stockbridge
You really do get the feeling that you’re going back in time at St Bernard’s. It’s the combination of the maximalist approach to old trinkets, the vinyl records playing and the amiable landlord who seems to have stepped out of the Victorian era. Squeeze yourself into a corner downstairs, or head through the folds of heavy velvet curtains upstairs for a cocktail or two.
3. Halfway House and The Jinglin’ Geordie, Old Town
In the narrow Fleshmarket Close sits the tiny Halfway House. I counted six tables in there along with four bar stools crammed in by the door. The walls are adorned with classic train advertisements, appropriate given its proximity to Waverley station. The ceiling is decked with a range of pump clips and, at the moment, festive decorations. I didn't try any of the three casks on offer, instead opting for a Caledonian Best on keg. Be prepared to share tables with strangers.
A couple of steps up the close is The Jinglin’ Geordie, only slightly bigger than its neighbour but with similar living-room vibes. The wooden bar, withs its hammered brass surface, hosts three casks too (I had a perfectly serviceable though unspectacular Deuchars). This was apparently a haunt of George Best’s during his short-lived stint at Hibs. Screens behind the bar show football, if that’s your thing.
4. Malt and Hops, Leith
When I first moved to Edinburgh, I was staying on the sofa at some friends’ flat. This was the first pub they took me to. It was just as the autumn weather was starting to turn. We nipped in after a walk along the Shore. It was surprisingly busy for a Monday night, but we found a table at the back next to the piano. There’s always a good selection of cask on, and I’ve since popped in for the odd pint or two and read my book by the fire.
5. The Cramond Inn, Cramond
For most people reading this, The Cramond Inn will probably be the furthest from their home. But it’s well worth the journey. In fact, of all the pubs on this list I’d say this is my number one recommendation. Not just because it had been shut for a few years before reopening last year. Not just because it has been burgled multiple times recently, which has impacted business. But because it is a beautiful old pub in a village suburb which takes you back in time.
The only remaining Samuel Smith’s pub in Edinburgh (I think), The Cramond Inn is all low ceilings, exposed beams and open fires. With multiple rooms, board games and pub grub on offer, it’s worth the walk along the coast to spend a few hours in, before getting a bus or taxi home. And it’s the largest of all the pubs on this list so is most appropriate for families or bigger groups. Expect a proper review of The Cramond Inn here before long.
Update: I reviewed this pub in January 2024
The chaser
Why are there so many pubs called The White Horse or The Swan? What’s the beef between Red Lions and White Harts? Where is the original Royal Oak?
I wrote about the history behind the ten most popular pub names in Britain. Have a read here.
One last thing…
Please forgive the non-Edinburgh-related news. But it was a real shame to read about the closure of Ringwood Brewery in Hampshire this week. Some of my first pints were of Ringwood Best with my Dad in the New Forest. It was (and still is) his favourite beer.
Brewers and drinkers around the country have a lot to thank Ringwood for. It was started in 1978, by master brewer Peter Austin, a forefather of the British beer revival in the late 20th century. Austin went on to help found over a hundred breweries in the UK and beyond, which you can read about in his 2014 obituary. He was the first chair of the Society of Independent Brewers and a pioneer of microbrewing.
Unfortunately Ringwood’s decline began a few years after its sale to Marston’s in 2007. Its death knell was rung when Marston’s merged with Carslberg UK in 2020. Hopefully our family can grab one last flaggon from the brewery this Christmas before it shuts its doors.
* This article was updated to correct a mistake about when The Cramond Inn had been shut down before the Covid period. Thank you to reader James MacDougall for pointing out the mistake.
I love the back room of the Oxford Bar when the fire is on in winter.